Perfect applique tutorial

Isn't it easy and beautiful?! Every shape can be appliqued this way

Isn't it easy and beautiful?! Every shape can be appliqued this way

I have sooo many fabric pieces. Most of them are wool and wool blends. Now that cold winter steps in, I want to make wool stuff. One of the projects on my mind is a quilted woolen. Since most of the wool fabrics are dark and grayish, a good idea is to use applique to lighten it a bit. So I was wondering how to do it without the applique making a bulk in the already bulky wool and came up with this idea. I’m sure I’m not discovering the wheel, and probably someone already came up with this idea, but since I searched the web and didn’t find it, decided to share it with you as a tutorial for the perfect applique. 

As much as I LOVE the raw edge kind of applique, there are cases, when classic applique with folded edge is better or required. I think a play matt , that will be heavily used needs just that, or I’ll have to constantly make repairs. 

The difficulty I find in applique is the time consuming shaping of the curves and the often teared inner angles. I choose to show you exactly this kind of shape – curves and angles, that will be hard and time consuming to shape with the regular cardboard and iron, or paper  and glue  method… 

The whole trick is in a material I use on my embroidery machine – water soluble fabric. This is a non-woven fabric, that can be stitched and then rinsed leaving no traces. It’s a magic material I fell in love with, since it is helpful in so many things! 

There are two kinds of water soluble stuff used in embroidery – the non-woven fabric, which you can sew a garment from if you wish (don’t go out if it’s cloudy! lol) and the water soluble foil, that is used to keep the embroidery on top of the fabric when terry cloth or velvet is the embroidery base. I’m using here the non-woven fabric, since the foil is too thin and flexible – like an ultra thin rubber sheet.  The fabric kind looks and behaves like some of the non-woven fusible interfacing. 

Here is the tutorial: 

Materials needed for the applique

Materials needed for the applique

Trace the drawing of the shape on the water soluble fabric

Trace the drawing of the shape on the water soluble fabric

Place the W-soluble fabric on top of the right side of the main applique fabric

Place the W-soluble fabric on top of the right side of the main applique fabric

Sew both together, following the drawing lines.

Sew both together, following the drawing lines

Trim excess fabric close to the stitching and cut a small opening in the W-soluble fabric

Trim excess fabric close to the stitching and cut a small opening in the W-soluble fabric

Use a pencil to turn around, so the seam is inside the applique shape

Use a pencil to turn around, so the seam is inside the applique shape

Make sure all curves are pulled out and there is no bulk of fabric , then iron WITHOUT steam

Make sure all curves are pulled out and there is no bulk of fabric , then iron WITHOUT steam

Place your applique on the desired place of your project and pin to secure

Place your applique on the desired place of your project and pin to secure

Choose a stitch type you like and top stitch at the edge of the applique or close to it.

Choose a stitch type you like and top stitch at the edge of the applique or close to it.

Pull the threads from the top to the back of your main fabric and make a small knot or just cut them

Pull the threads from the top to the back of your main fabric and make a small knot or just cut them

Here is your perfect applique - perfect curves and angles! Wash in warm water and the W-soluble fabric will melt away :-)

Here is your perfect applique - perfect curves and angles! Wash in warm water and the W-soluble fabric will melt away :-)

18 Responses to “Perfect applique tutorial”

  • Ute:

    Hey, that sounds interesting! :-)

    But what happens once you’ve washed the whole lot? If the soluble fabric disappears from underneath the motif, don’t the edges of the applique subsequently fray out then?

  • lena:

    Hi Ute! The edges are folded belneath the top stitching, so actually they are fixed to the fabric and have nowhere to go :-)
    That’s why it’s a perfect applique – you get the perfect curves and it’s all with no fraying and no tedious ironong to prepare the applique piece. Try it out and let me know. Greetings!!!

  • Ute:

    Oh, OK, I see… Once I stitch the applique to the fabric, I also catch the edges with my needle. So they can’t slip out anymore, once the soluble fabric is gone. Sounds ingenious to me. :-)

  • Ute:

    BTW: I’ve been experimenting with this over the weekend. For lack of soluble fabric, I used so-called “Vlieseline” – very thin material and similar in appearance, but it can bei ironed onto other fabric. That, in the end, gives you an applique you can iron onto the garment – which in turn makes it even easier to stitch around the edges.

    • lena:

      This sounds great! I have some lightweight Vlieseline and will give it a try. The point with the water soluble fabric is to wash it away and that’s what I like about it – no bulk on the lightweight fabrics. Is your Vlieseline with glue on both sides or only on one?

  • great tut Lena..if you ever want to be a guest at sew we quilt..let me know..we can always use tuts like these..excellent..

  • Jess:

    Brilliant! Thank you so much for this wonderful idea, I’m all inspired to go appliqué now :-)

  • visiting via sew mama sew… thanks for sharing this tutorial! so helpful! :)

  • Amie:

    I’ve never tried applique before because I don’t like the idea of frayed edges, so this looks like such a great idea! I’m thinking I may try this with one of those flushable cloth diaper liners I have a million of and never use. :)

  • Holly:

    Found you through Sew Mama Sew. Thanks for the great tutorial! That seems a lot easier than the methods I’ve tried in the past. I’d basically given up on applique, but I’ll give it a try your way!

    • lena:

      Hey Holly, Thanks for stopping by! For me this is the easiest, when we talk folded edge. Hope to post soon some new pictures to show other shapes and fabrics

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